Electric Dog Fence..?


Normally, I would say this form of pet containment is cruel. But after adoping my husky I’ve begun to look at it in a different light. My husky is an escape artist. She is able to jump my backyard fence in a single bound. And, she does it right in front of me sometimes. And, when she gets out, she will NOT listen to any commands, and will not come back. So when in the backyard I have to keep her on a chain (a long one). I want her to be able to run free and play in the backyard, but I’m afraid of her getting loose and getting hurt… or running away.

So, how effective are electric fences? All opinions or alternative suggestions welcome.

Additional info: She has completed basic obedience. She listens to commands and is a good dog… unless she gets out… then it’s all over. She gets regular walks… and plenty of attention.
I would love a taller fence… but that would be THOUSANDS of dollars. Which, is a tough bill to pay.

I don’t want an "electrified" fence because I live in a normal neighborhood where the fences divide yards. And I wouldn’t want to shock of friendly neighbor or their children. 🙂

Is it easier to train a dog with a chain link fence in already in place? Wouldn’t a dog start to be weary of "hanging around the fence" because of the potential shock?

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10 Responses to “Electric Dog Fence..?”

  1. ragapple says:

    I’m no fan of the invisible type electric fence alone but using it as a backup for a solid fence HAS worked for a few people I know. You still will have to train the dog, and the invisible will need to be set/positioned so that it holds her too far from the fence to jump. (we held a bull that fence jumped by putting a single electrified wire 2 ft in from the fence he was jumping)

  2. njss says:

    has she been desexed if not it may be an option to make life easier for both of you otherwise you need to continue with training as a dog has to learn —be taught to obey— you have to be a stricter master it makes life easier for both of you. Perhaps she will respond quickly to rewards keep trying to find a way of communicating.Be firm but be kind otherwise there are too many restrictions if she has not learnt to return when you request it!!!!

  3. RNDiva says:

    I have a pet containment system it really works great. The dog will get a mild shock but it really does not hurt them. this is better than getting hit by a car. It is pretty easy to set up check out eBay for systems or you can have it installed, but that can be pricey. Try petsafe brand. It is basically a wire that you run along the perimeter of your yard and the receiver is on the dog collar.It will send out a shock if the dog gets to close to the wire. this can be adjusted by the main control. You will need to set out flags so the dog will learn to recognize the barrier.Make sure you get a collar that has five levels so it can be adjusted. i have two dogs one needs only level one but the stubborn one needs level five.

  4. D T says:

    You have a great breed of dog in a husky. I would check out all of your options in the pet containment area. I have an invisible fence on my GS and it has worked great, but the training was the most important part. It is going to work to your advantage that you have your dog completely trained ON LEASH (as you know remember to give her a LOT of excersize). I would really recommend getting the wire for the fence put on the top of your real fence that your have. Do not short cut the training.
    check out this site b4 hand or after for some good tips:

  5. lala says:


  6. cs says:

    With most breeds, I would say that they are pretty effective, but Huskies are not most breeds when it comes to running. I have seen many run right thru the fence with out hesitating, only to be hit by a car or something else awful. You could use as a secondary line of defense, say just inside your physical fence line to possibly halt her jumping midway. But I’d still recommend a good 6ft privacy fence at least.

  7. abby_k9 says:

    I’m not a fan of the electric / invisible / underground type fencing.

    First, you have to go through a lengthy training process to make sure that your dog actually understands the fence. It’s not as easy as putting on a collar and letting your dog run loose, figuring she will get "shocked" when she approaches the fence. She’ll get shocked already but won’t understand why. You have to train her to understand that when she goes toward that boundary you’ve created, that’s when and why she gets shocked.

    Second, they are not foolproof. If the desire to cross the fence is strong enough, the dog will go through, shock or not. In breeds that like to chase things such as squirrels, deer, etc. this is not uncommon. Dogs that spook easily may also go through the fence if they become frightened by something on your side of it, or become frightened by the shock of the collar. Once on the other side of the fence, many are "trapped" and reluctant to come back inside the area because they want to avoid another shock, especially if they initially went out because they were chasing something and now don’t have that "drive" to get back to the other side.

    The best thing you can do is to either keep your dog on a long line in the backyard (it doesn’t have to be a chain – cotton laundry line works well and is a lot lighter), or invest in a taller fence. Tall privacy fences are usually a good option.

    Alternatively, you may want to consider putting in a kennel run. You can build a kennel cheaply using tall chain-link panels, and if climbing or jumping out is still an issue, you can put a tarp or roof at the top.

  8. up all night says:

    I have had my fence for about three years and I love it. I have three labrador retrievers and they do not get out. Even if we try to call them across. The secret to making it work is to train them well from the very first day. I still take mine around on a leash about once every six months for a refresher course. Let me know if you need any further help.

  9. Jeannie says:

    remember a buried electric containment system will not keep other dogs or pests out of your yard. Also, if your dog spooks or learns they can go past the boundry, you essentually have no fence; or they can be too scared to try and get back into the yard.

    If you have one that jumps or digs out of a regular fence, you can try a combination of both (the buried electric fence and the solid fence) to encourage him to respect the solid fence. Jumpers or climbers can also be discouraged by a hot wire (like used for livestock) running along the top of the fence. You can get insulators that are fairly long that effecively raise the top of the fence. Put another wire lower; it will prevent climbing attempts and the dog needs to learn that the wire will *bite* if touched while the dog is still on the ground and not in midair.

    It sounds like you would like the combination of fence and buried electric with a collar. You still have to train them and the systems come with a video to teach you how. The solid fence will help keep your yard secure so is safer to use in combination.

  10. dogger says:

    Ah, a husky owner with an escape artiste! Welcome to the world of Huskies!

    I think you are doing a great job with a fence and putting your dog on a run for exercise. About running away – it’s what they do. It requires enormous extra effort to get a Husky to recall reliably. [grin]

    Any containment depends on the personality of your dog. If your dog is especially persistent, it will consistently blow through the pain of a a hidden electric fence or shock collar.

    Huskies tend to be especially persistent.

    See if you can test your Husky in a neighbor’s hidden electric fence before you buy one and find it is useless. It may work for you or may not.

    As a general rule, I would say invisible fencing is insufficient for a Husky. That is generally. It could work for your dog. An electric fence by itself is definitely insufficient for a Husky, you absolutely need some sort of physical containment or barrier

    We have 4 Huskies, and two are escape artists. The others are content to laze around the 4 ft high fenced yard. We put up electric cattle fencing inside the physical fence, about 1 ft. Taht reduced the chance of anyone touching it. The physical wire fence slows them down, and the electric shock discourages them from digging under or pulling apart the wire fence. Yes, they have chewed through the welded wire fence!

    Modern materials allow you to put up an electric fence in 3 hours or so. We got a solar charger, 50 plastic posts, and 1200 ft of polytape fro abut $360. Polytape and polywire is polypropylene ribbon or rope with tiny metal wire woven through it. The poles have tape-clips molded into them. We planted the polels by stepping on them. We strung the tape at two levels though the molded clips, 6 in above the ground and 18 inches above, Mounted and wired the charger. That was it. 600 ft of enclosed perimeter in 3 hours. I touched the wire and it nearly knocked me over. (I was going to experience anything I expected the dogs to try)

    Any electric fence is a psycological barrier, not a physical one. I baited the dogs to touch the fence with peanut butter. They yelped and avoided it for an hour. Those darn Huskier tried it 4 more times before they were convinced. Then they tried it every few feet along the electric fence. Sheesh! They were like the velociraptors in Jurassic Park.

    Your town may have regulations about electric fences, so check with town hall first. Kids always try the fences then get bored and avoid them.

    Other solutions are:
    higher fence 8 ft high, roller bars on top of the fence (PVC pipe strong on wires), and more grid fence laid on the ground to discourage digging.

    Huskies have a wonderful joi d’vie. You will love your adopted dog, and its antics.

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